A PARTICULAR MYSTIC IS AROUND THE PERÓN-PERÓN, A RESTAURANT OF PALERMO WITH AN IMPRINT THAT TRANSFERS ITS DECORATION, WHERE THE POLITICAL IS CROSSED WITH GASTRONOMY AND EACH PLATE AWAKENS EMOTIONS.
“Put the empanada between the index finger and the thumb, give it two shakes, bite and suck”, says Perón-Perón chef, Gonzalo Alderete Pagés. As in a ritual, I follow the steps that lead me to taste a juicy empanada of buffalo meat, while the rest of the bar begins to fill up. No more tables or seats will be available at the bar before 21. Among the clients there are groups of friends, young couples and married couples with children, Argentines and tourists, militants and anti-Peronists. Although the panorama is varied, the restaurant breathes companionship.
The Perón-Perón opened its doors to the public more than seven years ago, when Daniel Narezo decided to create a meeting space for youth, which in the middle of the effervescence of Kirchnerism turned to politics again, and so that those who did not share the Peronism ideology could approach it through photos, paintings, scale designs and dedications of other diners.
A native of Salta, Alderete Pagés arrived two years later to take charge of the Perón-Perón fires. “I went to administer it and, after a week, I ended up getting into the kitchen”, he recalls. As he did not come from the stick of Peronism, he studied and researched the favorite food of Juan Domingo Perón and his wife, “Evita”, To check it, just look at the menu. In the hands of this cook, a product as popular as a osobuco is put to the best level with the use of spices, the application of techniques and long hours of cooking, and then served on a freshly made polenta or on a steaming potato cake, two of the dishes preferred by diners, as well as the buffalo steak and the lamb shank.
In terms of desserts, Alderete Pagés’s wife is the expert in stealing sighs with every bite. The “quinquenal flan” is a classic of the house, an evolution of the traditional recipe with much more body, while the flan of goat cheese with cane honey is an alternative that proposes to explore a tasty contrast.
Perón-Perón’s cuisine doesn’t seek to surprise with new textures, but to rescue the times of food, those that the rhythm of life in the big cities took away. It also aims to generate emotions and make present the dishes prepared by grandmothers, aunts, mothers, fathers … In short, those foods that filled our hearts.
Just as he chose to offer a buffalo meat milanesa to encourage consumption, Alderete Pagés also opted to work with small wineries to help them make their way. “When a guy puts all the affection to a wine and has little money, go out and sell them to Buenos Aires, with huge wineries that come from multinationals and that haven’t problem in lowering thousands of pesos in free merchandise, it’s hard. So, I decided to take out all the known wines and leave only wines from small wineries, from guys who do the laburo with their hands, with love, “explains the Perón-Perón chef. In this way, diners can choose from a series of wines that they will only find in a wine shop, which, after all, is the best place to buy a wine.
Sundays are peronist
The Perón-Perón opens its doors Monday to Saturday, from 18 to closing. As the after-dinner is sacred, just like on Sundays, it only works with a reservation on the first shift. Those who arrive for the second are listed on a list and leave a cell phone to be called when the table is and do not have to queue.
-Discork. Take your wine and pay the corkage at the price of the penguin.
-To take away. Make your order by phone, go to look for it and enjoy it at home with friends or family.
-National holidays. Celebrate them in the Perón-Perón or go with your pot and take your locro with homemade and spicy bread.
-Hours. Monday to Saturday from 18 to closing. Remember that the kitchen closes at 1 and on Sundays don’t open, because they are Peronist.
-Do you want to reserve a table in Perón-Perón? Send an email to firstname.lastname@example.org indicating the date and time of the reservation, number of guests and a cell phone. You can also reserve by calling 4777-6194 from 17.
-Our recommended. Choose a wine that you do not know, look at the photos, read the messages and dedications, sing the march, enjoy each bite and the after-dinner conversations.
Text and photos of Gabriela Naso.